Siem Reap: Angkor at first light

Siem Reap is a small Cambodian town that exists, for visitors, because of what lies just north of it. UNESCO lists Angkor as the remains of the successive capitals of the Khmer Empire, from the 9th to the 15th century, over about 400 km²: Angkor Wat, the Bayon at the centre of Angkor Thom, Ta Prohm and Preah Khan among many others.

The temples are crowded at the famous moments — sunrise at Angkor Wat, sunset from the usual viewpoints — and almost empty at others. For a celebration trip we use that: one sunrise at Angkor Wat, because it is worth it once even with others there, then the quieter temples at times when the tour groups are elsewhere, and long afternoons at the hotel.

The town itself has good small hotels with gardens and pools, which matter here more than anywhere else on our routes, because the middle of the day is for rest.

Three. That gives you two full days at the temples — one starting with sunrise at Angkor Wat, one later and slower — and lets the arrival evening be free. Two nights work, but the second day becomes a rush. Beyond three, for a celebration trip, the extra day is better spent on the coast.

Siem Reap's annual rainfall averages about 1,405 mm, and three-quarters of Cambodia's rain falls in the southwest monsoon, according to Britannica. For a trip that continues to the beach, the overlap that works is December to March, when Siem Reap, the Cambodian coast and Phu Quoc are all dry.

Flights arrive at Siem Reap–Angkor International Airport, opened on 16 October 2023 about 50 km east of the town to replace the old airport near the temples. The transfer is longer than it used to be, so arrive with time to spare and do not plan anything for the first evening except, possibly, the sunset rule above.

Luang Prabang has flights to Siem Reap, which makes a Laos-and-Angkor combination possible. From Siem Reap to the coast, our route goes via Phnom Penh to Kep, 173 km from Phnom Penh by road.

Angkor and Vietnam's southern islands spends three nights in Siem Reap, then continues via Phnom Penh and Kep to Phu Quoc. For a combination with Laos, the Laos and Vietnam route can be adapted to fly Luang Prabang – Siem Reap; ask when you send the form.